Green with envy
A resource(ful) guide for Organic Gardening with easy to read descriptions of necessary knowledge and tips when you are on a budget.
Our country is going through some hard times right now and everyone is looking for a way to cut back on expenses and growing some of your own food is an excellent idea. You will have food in your stomach and more money in your pocket. When your friends and neighbors see you they will be.... green with envy.
Most people associate organic plants and vegetables as being higher priced first of all and better for you secondly. This is not quite true. While they are no doubt better for you.... Organic growing by no means has to be expensive. Through a series of blog articles I will give you plenty of information and ideas to help you achieve successful organic gardening without a dent in your pocket. You probably already have most all of the items I will list already in your home. You can find them in your kitchen, your bathroom, your fridge, your office, your garage, you won't believe all the things you can use to grow better plants and vegetables naturally, organically.
Organic gardening is explained most simply as utilizing only organic (naturally occurring) materials for all phases of the growing process, from improving the soil before planting to feeding or fertilizing to preventing or curing an insect or disease issue. The key word that needs to be paid attention to is ALL phases of the process, from preparing the soil to pest control. If you revert to man-made pesticides or fertilizers you can no longer claim your outcome to be truley organically grown. You will have some chewed leaves here and there but overall you will get more for your money.
Organic gardening is not new and most homeowners have practiced organic gardening at one time or another without even knowing it. When you tossed that banana peel down under that bush in the back yard, or when you poured the last of your glass of tea into the potted plant...... that was organic gardening!
The term organic, according to some, organic gardening has it's 'roots' beginning many years ago in Europe and the ideas were introduced to the United States around the 1940's. beginning with a group of dedicated gardeners who practiced their trades with the use of non-organic sprays or fertilizers. Organic gardening is also a way to make a contribution on a broader front of environmental issues and conservation. Imagine how much more beneficial those coffee grounds, egg shells, banana peels, etc. would be if they were worked into the soil and not laying on top of that old computer at the landfill. I am going to give you several ideas for re-using those trash bin items which is going to work out in everyone's best interest! You might be amazed at some of the items I will suggest you add to your compost pile. If you don't have a compost pile, chances are someone near you does and would love to have those wonderful tidbits. One man's trash is another man's soil additives!!
The most important thing you need to know about organic gardening is that it will be a little more work. Your going to have to make that special trip to the compost bin or those items are going to start to stink and draw flies and you'll be tempted to throw them out. Your going to have to remember to put that bucket out to catch the rainwater, to check your plants for pests, to till the soil, to stir the compost, the list goes on and on! Don't worry though, not all things need to be done at one time. If you want a compost pile, I will tell you several ways to make one in my next blog and what to put into it and when to take out of it. If you don't have a compost pile, that is less you need to worry about. Even if you don't have room for a bin does not mean you cannot use some tips on household items that you can use to fertilize the soil around your potted plants or landscape, change the color of your hydrangeas, or mix up a bottle of pesticide. If you are just looking for hints for your bonsai or houseplants, I will give you those too. Please read my next blog about how to make a compost pile and everything you need to know about keeping it up and producing a wonderful mulch/fertilizer that your plants will love.
Tip #1 - Recycling
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Recycle ! Whether you intend to recycle your trash to harvest a crop or just do your part for Mother Nature, every little bit helps. I will give you a list of re-usable kitchen and household items such as banana peels, coffee grinds, sugar, baking soda, epsom salts and tell you how you can use these items to enrich your soil, change the acidity / alkalinity, make fertilizers, and pesticides at the end of the blog. If you don't want those egg shells, someone else might be able to use them. You can always run a free advertisement in a venue something like Craigslist. You could list under the section of Free or Farm & Garden. Possibly there is something you want in return.... try the Barter section! Teachers will often times request your used empty egg cartons for school projects so everyone should be able to do a small part in conservation and reclamation. Choose your city and follow the instructions. First check out the Free, Wanted, Barter, and Farm & Garden sections. On the left side of the Craigslist web-site there is a search engine. You can search pretty quickly if you are looking for anything in particular, but I find it fun to read through the ads. Follow Craigslist advise about the dangers that can be associated with deals made on Craigslist. It is always best to just check around with your friends, neighbors, co-workers and members of any groups you may be involved with first. There are several web-sites like Craigslist. Places which you can list free items or pick up free items that you may be in need of. I am always finding people who are getting new landscape and are giving away free plants and trees. Nurseries that are going out of business or just closing down for the winter are always listing close-out prices. It is a great way to pick up grow lights and seedling heat pads at discount prices.
The more involved you want to be, the more I suggest..... You better shop around. If you only want the information, hints and tips that I lay out for you that is just fine, but if you want to get into organics a little deeper and set yourself up with fruits and veggies for the year, I will give you some names of some really good web-sites, Web sites that are very informative and known for their commitment to excellence. You can learn a lot from browsing through some of these web-sites and becoming familiar with some of the products that are common in organic gardening. Before we get into that, we need to first determine what type of plants do you wish to grow?, and more importantly what type of soil have you have to grow plants in????
Soil Identification
What type of soil do you have?
Basically there are 3 types of soil and multiple soil combinations.
(Please don't call it dirt !!)
Basically there are 3 types of soil and multiple soil combinations.
(Please don't call it dirt !!)
I recommend a professionally conducted soil analysis from your county agriculture agents office which will give you the perfect recommendation for the soil changes you need to make. Your particular county's agriculture agent will be able to suggest a laboratory nearest you to get the testing done and what you need to do. This website is full of important information. You may want to know why that certain plant was detained at the border!?? and what does the term " invasive plant" mean someday! The Agriculture department is a wealth of information and are there to help you when ever you have a question. If you would like to try to self-diagnose your soil yourself.... choose one of the following that best describes your soil .......
Clay soil is very fine textured and the individual particles fit tightly together. These fine particles will fit so tightly that water cannot penetrate between them. This causes water run-off. When water sits on hard clay soil, it will eventually work into the soil and sit like a bowl of water. Plants roots have a hard time penetrating through this hard, compact soil. It is also referred to as "heavy soil". Clay is packed full of wonderful elements for plant growth and health but clay alone is not enough. Clay soil does not hold the additional nutrients needed or the oxygen necessary for healthy plants. Do not fret though if you have clay soil to begin with.... you can make it into a wonderful soil with just a little effort and a few needed elements. Depending on the hardness of the soil, or if you live in a region where it snows and you want to be able to use your garden a little longer, an above ground garden can be the perfect answer. I was thrilled and amazed at some of the really new and bright ideas and shapes when it comes to above ground gardens. They are so easy to put together and can really shock you at how much you can grow in a small space. The shapes really excite me with sunburst patterns and tiers. I will go into more detail about them in another blog when I will name some of the best places I have found to do business online.
Sandy soil is lighter and allows free air movement through the soil but it is problematic in the fact that it does not hold water or valuable nutrients in. Water runs right through it and so do all the necessary vitamins and minerals, fertilizers, etc. The good news is that few soils are either 100% sand or 100% clay. And both of the above mentioned sub-par soils can be amended to make the ideal soil which is..... drum roll please...............
Loam soil is the ideal soil mixture and your goal in gardening soil. Loam soil allows free circulation of soil, oxygen and water. The structure allows excess water to drain away while still retaining enough water for healthy, productive plant growth. Loam soil also allows excellent root growth. New roots have no trouble penetrating through the soil. The healthier the roots the healthier the plant and more productive it will be. Healthy plants means spending less! Healthy plants are able to ward off pests and diseases easier than a sickly plant. Loam soil holds in the fertilizers longer allowing the plant to make the most use of it. When you think loam, think fertile growing medium.
There are ways to amend your soil to make it possible to grow the plants you desire. It may take a little more time to prepare the soil, but if you are determined you can make it happen. I will make a blog for instructions on how to amend your soil soon to follow.
How Organic Material Enriches Soil
(This is one of the basics of organic gardening. In case someone asks you in a nutshell to break it down for them!)
Decomposition
The very basics - Ever since getting into organic growing decomposition has taken on a new and wonderful meaning! I won't even go into my previous thought process it is too gory but now decomposition means a new beginning. Organic (once living) material is reunited from whence it came, back to the ground to be used by micro-organisms and bacterias as foods and energy and these will in turn end their life cycle and return to the ground becoming food for another and the cycle goes on. In this decay and decomposition certain organic material will eventually break down to nutrients that are essential for plant growth. Dirt becomes good soil only when organic matter, living organisms, oxygen, moisture and nutrients are available for plant and micro-organism growth. The composition of organic matter changes becoming a dark brown, sticky substance called humus.
In loam soils the individual materials have broken down by combined action of decomposition, build-up, and circulation. Insects and worms are attracted to this soil and their waste products and even their own death and decay in the soil is good for it and enriches it. Earthworms are especially beneficial and are a sign of good progress. They help to aerate the soil by tunneling through it. Later I will have a click to print link of beneficial insects for your garden, how to attract them and how to keep them safe while getting rid of other pests.
If you are not familiar with decomposition, one of the effects of organic materials slowly breaking down is heat is created. Heat is essential in the process and if you are going to build a compost bin you will need to read up more on this. I will give you the information you need to know under the blog header Compost Bins soon to come. When organic matter is freshly added to the ground, decay begins. Bacteria sets in and begins to work on the materials and the time it takes to break them down depends on soil temperatures as well as bacterial populations. Nearly all soils contain too little organic matter, decomposition is always taking place and you will need to 're-fuel' the fire!
A little more complicated - Carbon and nitrogen from once living matter breaking down in the soil is used by micro-organisms. Levels of carbon and nitrogen are checked and sometimes manually manipulated by soil additives. The micro-organisms break down the matter and use nitrogen from the soil and the decomposing material for their own bodies which puts them in competition with the plants needs. If the amount of nitrogen is not sufficient for both the plant and organism, the plant will most likely be the one to suffer, too much nitrogen and you may have a gangly, spindly, strung out looking plant. The carbon and nitrogen balance is referred to as the carbon/nitrogen ratio. If an organic material is composed of 30% carbon and 2% nitrogen, the ratio is 30/2 broken down further to 15/1 (15 to 1) or 15. Micro-organisms maintain a carbon/nitrogen ratio of about 10 ( 10 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen). An organic material which contains at least 1.5% nitrogen can support the decomposition process without reducing the total nitrogen in the soil.
Must Knows - There are some factors with decomposition and adding materials to your compost or soil that you need to think about ahead of planting time. It takes time for decomposition to occur. Some of these changes could take months. Adding certain materials can change the acidity or alkalinity in your soil. Some materials can deplete things from the soil during their decaying process! Sometimes, too much of a good thing is bad for your soil and your plants. Be sure and read the re-usable things from your house-hold and kitchen for more information. You need to know what type of plants do you desire to plant??? If you are like me.... there are so many choices and such little room. But you must know ahead of time what it is you want to plant because some plants such as Azaleas, Camellias, require acid soil while others require an alkaline soil and still others like it somewhere in between to be their ultimate best. Do you want to adjust your plant preference to match the soil? or adjust your soil to suit your plant preference?
Please don't forget when choosing your plants or veggies to choose plants which are best grown in your location. You can always contact your local Agriculture agent and you can always take a peak into the neighbors yards to see what they are growing. Don't be afraid to ask, people with gardens are usually pretty talkative and enjoy meeting new friends and are glad to share their knowledge. Check your local produce station and ask them what they buy locally. Be sure and keep the seeds from whatever you buy there!!
The best time to add your organic mixture is well ahead of your desired planting date. This will allow it sufficient time for the nitrogen to be returned from the bacteria back to the soil. Autumn is the recommended time for most gardeners. The micro-organisms will work and feed on it over winter and will release it back to the soil and the plants in spring when it is needed the most. When the ingredients are first added and begin to breakdown, the process of decomposition is using alot of nitrogen which is why a compost bin is recommended. A compost bin will allow the part of the decomposition process which is worst for plant health and growth to pass and become a stable soil ingredient which is more beneficial.
What is Plant Nutrition?
Gently: Plants need 16 essential nutrients to be available to their roots through the soil to be healthy. A shortage of any of these will result in the plant most likely showing signs of its deficiency. 3 of the 16 nutrients are considered major and are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). If you have done a little dabbling in gardening, you may have fertilized a plant before. Located on the packaging of your fertilizer you may or may not have noticed 3 little numbers separated by dashes. They would look something like this... 20-20-20 or 4-6-4 or any other number of combinations. Well, those three numbers correspond to the amount of the 3 nutrients mentioned aove. They are always listed in the same order.... N,P, K.
A very simple breakdown goes something like this....
Nitrogen (N) in the soil regulates the plants ability to make proteins which are the growth stimulators contained within the plant cell. This promotes growth of stems and leaves and gives the plant that beautiful green color we love so well. Nitrogen is even more important to some plants than to others, such as lettuce or cabbage and other leafy crops. Nitrogen however, leaches further down into the ground and out of reach of the plants roots so it must be replenished as needed. Care should be taken though to only add what is needed lest you over-correct and cause an oversupply which can cause problems of its own. Please read the List of Signs of Deficiencies and General Illness to see if your plant is suffering from an over abundance of love!! Soil bacteria combine gaseaous nitrogen from the air with other elements in a process called nitrogen fixation. Some of these nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in nodules on plant roots, or within the soil itself. While these bacteria "fix" nitrogen, other decay organisms release nitrogen as they break down organic matter. Nitrogen that enters the soil from dead plant and animal material goes through several changes before plant roots can use it. Micro-organisms digest the raw organic nitrogen and convert it to a new form which is ammonia. Other soil organisms then change the ammonia to the nitrite form of nitrogen or to a usuable nitrate form.
Points to remember here are that these items will break down according to the temperature of the soil, the quantity of micro-organisms, the moisture and even the acidity. You don't want too much nitrogen during the fall or winter when you don't want to encourage new growth to break out. Be sure to read the manufacturers directions and follow them carefully. When available I will also name items you can use from your home to ammend your soil and these will save you some money for smaller organic projects and also for increasing the health of your grass and landscape plants and trees too.
Phosphorus (P) is necessary to the production of plant sugars and provides the way by which energy, released by the burning of sugars is transferred withing the plant. This is a nutrient which is an active ingredient of the protoplasm ( living material) in plant cells. A lack of phosphorus will show symptoms similar to those of a nitrogen deficiency but different enough for a discearning eye to tell the difference and act accordingly. Growth of the plant may be poor, and slow, maturity is delayed. The best thing about adding phosphorus to your soil is that there is little danger of excess soil phosphorus. Dull green foliage is a sign for a need of more phosphorus.
A very simple breakdown goes something like this....
Nitrogen (N) in the soil regulates the plants ability to make proteins which are the growth stimulators contained within the plant cell. This promotes growth of stems and leaves and gives the plant that beautiful green color we love so well. Nitrogen is even more important to some plants than to others, such as lettuce or cabbage and other leafy crops. Nitrogen however, leaches further down into the ground and out of reach of the plants roots so it must be replenished as needed. Care should be taken though to only add what is needed lest you over-correct and cause an oversupply which can cause problems of its own. Please read the List of Signs of Deficiencies and General Illness to see if your plant is suffering from an over abundance of love!! Soil bacteria combine gaseaous nitrogen from the air with other elements in a process called nitrogen fixation. Some of these nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in nodules on plant roots, or within the soil itself. While these bacteria "fix" nitrogen, other decay organisms release nitrogen as they break down organic matter. Nitrogen that enters the soil from dead plant and animal material goes through several changes before plant roots can use it. Micro-organisms digest the raw organic nitrogen and convert it to a new form which is ammonia. Other soil organisms then change the ammonia to the nitrite form of nitrogen or to a usuable nitrate form.
Points to remember here are that these items will break down according to the temperature of the soil, the quantity of micro-organisms, the moisture and even the acidity. You don't want too much nitrogen during the fall or winter when you don't want to encourage new growth to break out. Be sure to read the manufacturers directions and follow them carefully. When available I will also name items you can use from your home to ammend your soil and these will save you some money for smaller organic projects and also for increasing the health of your grass and landscape plants and trees too.
Phosphorus (P) is necessary to the production of plant sugars and provides the way by which energy, released by the burning of sugars is transferred withing the plant. This is a nutrient which is an active ingredient of the protoplasm ( living material) in plant cells. A lack of phosphorus will show symptoms similar to those of a nitrogen deficiency but different enough for a discearning eye to tell the difference and act accordingly. Growth of the plant may be poor, and slow, maturity is delayed. The best thing about adding phosphorus to your soil is that there is little danger of excess soil phosphorus. Dull green foliage is a sign for a need of more phosphorus.
Potassium (K) - Potassium is often expressed as its compound potash (K2O) and is essential to the manufacturing and movement of the sugars and starches within the plant and for division of plant cells. Potassium is sometimes thought to hasten maturity and seed production and to also aid in root development. Without sufficient potassium, plants grow more slowly than normal. Potassium is available in the soil in several forms. One form is soluble in water and others are insoluble and are unavailable to plants. Only about 1% of the total supply of potassium in the soil can be used by plants. This 1% is referred to as exchangeable potassium and may be derived from both minerals and organic matter. In this form, potassium is not soluble and is not free to move within the soil solution unless it undergoes a slow weathering process which releases ions into the solution. Roots can however, pick up exchangeable potassium from the soil or humus particles without that element actually entering the soil solution. I just rely on the recommendations for each individual plant. Mottled yellow leaf tips and edges or older leaves which look scorched around the edges is a sign for a need of more phosphorus.
Those were the top 3 major nutrients all plants need to survive, but that's not all there are many vital nutrients we need to discuss.
There is Calcium, magnesium and sulphur. These are secondary nutrients which are usually present in the soil. Calcium is necessary for manufacture and growth of plant cells and also aids in the plants root system growth. Magnesium is an important part of chlorophyll ( the green material in the leaves) which is required for photosynthesis to take place. Sulphur provides protein to the plant much like nitrogen.
There are also what are known as trace elements. There are seven nutrients in the soil referred to as trace elements: iron, zinc, manganese, boron, molybdenum, copper and chlorine. Each is required in plant growth but in very small quantities and normally there is no deficiency of these elements except in extreme situations. The regular addition of fresh organic matter releases most of these elements to the soil.
Is your soil acid or alkaline? (and does it really matter)
Does whether your soil is acid or alkaline really matter??, well the answer is yes, to the plant.... it does matter.
Whether your soil is more acid, alkaline or somewhere in the middle is very important to how well your plant will prosper. Soil which is alkaline (sometimes called sweet) or acid ( sour ). Although some plants like azaleas and blueberries prefer acid soil, most vegetables and flowers prefer soils that are neutral or slightly acid. When you are planning and purchasing your garden items, think in advance what your best course of action will be. If the soil under my feet is acid, I will grow acid lovers in the ground and put my alkaline lovers in pots. If my soil is alkaline I will put my acid lovers into pots so I can keep everyone separated and happy and I get the best my plants can offer with the least amount of fuss and bother. If you demand to place that acid lover into alkaline soil you can do some adjusting to the soil to accomodate it. You will need to keep checking the soil periodically to be sure that you are keeping it at the level your plant requires.
You can have your soil professionally analyzed. Conducted professionally, a soil analysis can point to the reasons you may be experiencing troubles. Your county agricultural agent's office can suggest a laboratory in your area that will test your soil and make recommendations for improvements. You can purchase a soil analysis meter. These are relatively cheap and if you look hard enough you can find a quality made meter with a water meter, acidity/alkalinity tester and light meter all built in together. The old fashioned test. If you don't have the extra funds to spend on a meter and the agriculture laboratory is too far from home you can always try one of the rawest tests - see Baking Soda below.
Tip #2
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Plan ahead. Another tip for saving money is getting as much as you need at one place. If you are ordering products for home delivery, shipping cost can be quite high. The more you purchase at one time, the more money in shipping you save.
Tip #3
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Use these items in your compost bin:
1. Egg Shells - Add to soil (Kitchen)
2. Banana Peels - Add to soil (Kitchen)
3. Fruit & Vegetable rhinds - Add to soil (Kitchen/Left-overs)
4. Shredded Paper Products - Attracts earthworms during decomposition (Office) (remove plastic windows from envelopes before shredding)
5. Newspaper - Shred and add to compost bin or use under or as a landscape fabric to help kill weeds. (yours or your neighbors front lawn!)
6. Epson Salts - Changes/ the acidity of the soil. Great tip for Hydrangeas lovers! (Bathroom)
7. Sugar - (Kitchen)
8. Cayenne Pepper seeds/crushed - Use as animal/insect repellent (Kitchen)
9. Salt - (Kitchen)
10. Tea & Tea Bags (Kitchen)
11. Coffee & Coffee filters - (Kitchen)
12. Manure - Horse, Cow, Chicken, Turkey, Worm - (neighboring farms, check Craigslist! you will be surprised this is usually listed for free! and sometimes they will load it for you!!
13. Baking Soda - MULTIPLE USES
To test soil acidity - Add one pinch of baking soda to one tablespoon of soil, if it fizzles the soil ph is probably less than 5.0.
Sprinkle lightly around tomatoes to sweeten them! (lowers acidity)
Coat the inside of clay pots before adding soil to keep the soil fresh.
Add baking soda to the water for cut flowers to lengthen their life.
Use to raise the alkalinity in the soil (Use sparingly)
Baking soda mixed with water is used to kill black spot on roses and powdery mildew on crepe myrtles. This can burn the leaves so use sparingly and rinse off the leaves before the sun gets too hot.
If you don't have room for a compost bin, just use an old can or container with a lid to store items until you have enough to take outside and work into the soil around your potted or landscape plants for a revitalization. I use coffee cans, because they fit easily in the cabinet under the sink and are easy to access and hold quite a bit before I need to empty them. Just throw in your coffee and tea bags, filters and all.
IMPORTANT - DO NOT USE ANIMAL PRODUCTS (meat/fat/grease/bones/etc) except some manures as these will attract rodents and other animals.
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